March 8th
How come we always start the blog with food! Breakfast this
morning consisted of a sweet potato spread. Our initial thoughts were - ugh!
But being the foodie that I am I tried it. Surprisingly it was rather pleasant
although it tasted like it had had honey added to it and as a result quite
sweet.
The "Main" Royal Gate. |
We were met at the Riad at 09:30 by our guide Naqib. His English
was good as it turned out that he had spent time in the UK in 1972 in Brighton
which is where I went to Polytechnic ten years later. The tour started with a
car ride to the main gate of the Royal Palace. This is the only one that can be
photographed (as its not used by the King). This is very impressive with bronze
doors and ornate carving around the outside. We then walked back to the car and
passed the Jewish quarter where there is jewellry making and gold and silver
work. This was on our way to a fort that overlooked the south of the city. From
there we took in panoramic views.
Tamsin caught a fantastic shot of a Lesser Kestrel
as it left its nest in the wall of the fort. We were then driven back into the
city and dropped off just outside the medina walls. Walking past the stalls and
shops in the medina we passed fish shops selling shark, red snapper, sardines
and something that Naqib called rabbit fish! We also passed a butchers selling camel, which
we advised was like a tough beef.
A lesser Kestrel |
A beautiful roof of a madersa |
During our wander around the medina we
visited El Attarine Medersa which is a medieval Muslim school which has a highly
decorated entrance, we looked in on the Karaouiyine Mosque which is a Muslim
university originating in 859 (non Muslims are not allowed to enter), the Bou
Inania Madersa, this is the only madersa in Morocco to have both a minbar
(pulpit) and a minaret this is also one of the few Islamic religious buildings
to be open to non-Muslims. We also visited the Fondouk el-Nejjarine which is a
former caravanserai that provided food, rest and shelter for visiting traders
and craftsmen. While going from here to visit the tanneries I managed to lose
Naqib, Tamsin and Hanna and ended up viewing the wrong tannery before
backtracking and finding them. In the mean time they had reported me lost to
the police. Somehow I don’t think and all points bulletin had been put out! The
tannery was very interesting, these have been going almost unchanged for
thousands of years.
A Medieval scene |
Yes, they do really get into the "zee pigeon sheet"! |
We were informed that the start of the process the skins
are stripped of all hair/fur and then placed in vats that contain “zee pigeon
sheet”, this happens for about 4 days, they are then rinsed and dried before
they are then dyed using natural dyes such as indigo, poppy flowers, mascara or
saffron. Needless to say the smell is quite strong and could easily become
unpleasant. After this we walked to the Clock House cafe which is where said
goodbye to Naqib. We found a table for three on top of the Clock House roof
(best views and atmosphere) and ordered a light vegetarian lunch. This place
had been suggested by Michelle.
This evening we had booked a table at the Dar Roumana, which
is also a Riad. This had also been recommended by Michelle. We had a guide turn
up at our hotel and took us there in time for us to have pre prandial gin and
tonics. The meal was superb and didn’t involve a single tagine, no doubt we
will pay for that over the next few days as we head south towards the Sahara,
Salam ali cum !
ReplyDeleteSo happy to read your blog. What an adventure !
TREK SALAMA
michelle
Hi MIchelle!
ReplyDeleteYup, we're havin' fun here. Starting to get bored of tagines now ;^)
Chris & Tamsin